Sunday, December 20, 2009

Pictures!








Picture 1-This is Ajuaye my good friend and 'maid'. She gave birth to Zena Elizabeth in November. She gave me a huge honor by giving Zena my middle name!
2-This is an annual church celebration for one of my mama's who is the leader of the Catholic church.
3-My friend Peter and I sharing a goat leg on Thanksgiving day!
4-My little buddy Adela's 9th birthday.
5-It's customary to feed each other cake on special occasions. This idea was stolen from American weddings and has spiraled into every event!
6-The boys slaughtered a goat (and later a duck) for Thanksgiving. YUMM

Oh say can you see...

I'm in America. AMERICA! It's even shinier than I remembered! The roads are smooth, the food, abundant, and finally I'm just another anonymous American going through the motions. My motions, however, are fulfilled blissfully. Send me to the grocery store for a loaf of bread and I'll return 2 hours later. After all, it's my patriotic duty to pirouette down each aisle admiring, touching, and giggling at the veritable cornucopia of choice. Mundane tasks like filling the gas tank are opportunities to soak in the beauty of a functioning society. In Tanzania we travel with liters of gas in milk cartons to top up after we've come to a halt in the middle of nowhere.

These rose, white, and blue colored glasses are temporary. I can't forever be impressed by the 225 types of crackers for sale. I'm realizing America equates consumerism. I forgot how inundated we are by advertisements. We are all material whores. Look around you. How many things at your desk are critical to your survival? How many things in a two-foot radius do you actually use? I'm not pointing fingers, because this is our culture. We proved we can survive, now we're all gluttons. More, bigger, leather interior, 500 gazillion gigabytes, sleek, sexy, status. Who are we? We cloak ourselves in gadgets and gizmos, MAC makeup and mini dresses. In America we live so easily through alter egos. But strip it all away, all the clothes and cars, the feng shui apartment, the fake tits, the Ray Bans, the convertible. Are we even likable? Do we have heart? Are we interesting?

I'm not advocating a mass material bonfire. People work hard to buy their happiness. I'm also not saying manual farm labor is a more fulfilling existence. I'm only sharing with you my quest to find a middle ground. In my strange and cluttered mind (think Japanese anime meets Chelsea Handler meets a chubby 14 year old boy), the place I can relax most, is where I'm ankle deep in chicken shit tending to my animals. For a girl once barely capable of remembering to fill the dog's bowl, I am now a chicken farmer. Why do I do it? And more importantly, why do I enjoy it? There is immeasurable satisfaction that comes with taking control of one's surroundings and learning to use nature to survive. Strip away the grocery store, GPS, google, and who would last five minutes? The pleasure of eating tomatoes that you nurtured from seedlings or scrambling eggs from your own backyard...come on, that's living! I don't want to be a farmer. Come August 2010 the closest I want to be to a farm is a Farmer's Market. I also don't want to disguise myself with the smoke and mirror bullshit materialism that supposedly defines our success and happiness.

For now, I'm reveling in the novelty of America. When I go to the bars in Scottsdale I fit in. Well, at least until I open my mouth. To shun consumerism, our American culture, is overwhelming and frankly, senseless. I would be an outsider. For 1.5 years I've been an outsider in terms of race, religion, culture, and education. While standing on the edge of it all has its perks on perspective, let's be honest...I enjoy a nice meal, a spiky pair of stilettos, and the easy existence of friends, family, and an Ipod Touch.

America and I have a complicated but empathetic relationship. We may not be life partners, but we're in an open relationship that is finally based on trust, understanding, and patience. I love America. Despite her questionable priorities, vanity, and total disregard for the preservation of resources, I can see her inner strength and perseverance.

Take a look around you today. Examine all of the clutter in your life. Don't throw it away, don't feel guilty. Just be aware. But excuse me, it's time for my 2pm kitchen raid.

Patriotically yours,

Kate

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Almost Home

19 days until I board a plane to the Promised Land. In my book, that’s 19 days too long. To put it lyrically, village life is killing me softly. I’ve been primarily running between 3 construction sites, raising chickens practically single-handedly (sustainability???), and teaching batik making to a women’s group in a sub-village about an hour away on foot. A few weeks ago while contracting transportation prices for bricks, I came across a cold, ugly truth. The principal and carpenter had been stealing hundreds of dollars from the school toilets. I’ve been told repeatedly not to trust anyone, and for the most part, I don’t. What happened is they negotiated the ‘good’ price with a driver and gave me the cost. If a white person negotiates a price in Tanzania it will generally be about twice of what a Tanzanian is quoted. I entrusted this duty into the hands of our principal, someone who is also part of my village family. Not only did he give me the wrong price, but he and the carpenter invented extra trips that never really happened. Why did they do this? The list is never-ending. First, I’m white. Naturally they’re entitled to my money as there is always plenty more where it came from. Second, in most ways, I’ll always be a guest. I’m not Tanzanian. I’m also an unlikely source of education and respect in the village. I guarantee I’m the only 23 year old that hears ‘Shikamoo’ (Swahili greeting for I respect you) from people twice my age. Anyway, these cocky men assumed I didn’t have the capacity or intelligence to sort out their dirty schemes.

When this all came to light I took it to a ward government official and he immediately crusaded into the principal’s office guns blazing. After an hour of denials and plans for a meeting the following day, I stormed to my house, slammed a few doors, and if those walls could talk, oh my…Anyway, that night the principal and carpenter, tails between their legs, returned most of the money to the government. They also presented a receipt with bogus claims of how the rest of the money was used. I was even more furious that they admitted to stealing but were still trying to get away with it! I refused to forgive them. This is a respect-based culture and I used a few choice words to make it clear their sins were not yet absolved. 3 days later, all the money was back.

It was a devastating incident. I’ve been robbed constantly since arriving in Tanzania. Weeks ago it was my ipod in an Njombe hotel where Peace Corps has had a relationship for 20 years. I’ve been robbed of clothes, money, medicine, a bike, dignity (after 3 TZ beers, that may be my own fault!). Needless to say, I am jaded. I can’t trust anyone, especially people’s intentions. How can someone laugh with me, sit in my home, work by my side and then rob me blind? I know, I know, it happens every day. I just wanted to believe people were good. Ha. After a year and a half in Peace Corps, what do I think? People suck. Do I regret coming here? Never. Am I doing sustainable work? Highly doubtful. Will some people in the village be better off because I knew them? Actually, I think yes. There’s an up-and-coming generation in Mhaji who can blow kisses, give bear hugs, use crayons, and who will never be afraid of white people. If all I did was nurture some dirty village children, I’m content to say-mission accomplished.

My main focus until December is batik. I’ll be bringing home some beautiful cloths to sell next month. The money will buy more supplies and give the women a little money to buy soap, oil, and other essentials. Some of my best moments this month have been sitting in our batik ‘office’ telling stories with the women about America and desperately trying to decipher what the hell they’re saying in the tribal language. Most people in the village prefer KiBena over KiSwahili to my dismay. We’ve shared some real belly laughs. Yesterday I was telling them about life in America and how if you don’t have money you’ll live on the street. One of the women asked if she’d be killed if she slept on the road. I said it was possible and throughout the entire 7 hours of batik yesterday she went against the grain saying she had no desire to go to America and have her head cut off. Maybe you had to be there. The rest of the women, however, are ready and willing to leave their husbands and children to drive a car and stop farming. I wish there was some way to show them America but realistically the closest they’ll get are my words and pictures. I can’t wait to shock and awe them with pictures of the freeway, grocery store, and mall. I’ve told them we have 300 brands of cookies and they think I’m nuts.

Quick project update: Chickens are 3 months and HUGE! They’ll start laying eggs in January. School toilets will be completed next week (fingers crossed). Church toilets were finished yesterday. Community toilets will be finished in 2 weeks. Final HIV village testing day is on Tuesday. I have two more walls to paint of the birthing room. Life skills is on hold until I get back in January. Orphan projects are on-going and unfortunately I have to postpone our trip to town until January. Most of the kids have never left the village so I’m planning a day trip to Njombe and a tour of the bank, market, and post office.

Happy early Thanksgiving!
Next time I write, it will be from America. Although I have a sick fear of flying, I’m actually looking forward to being on a form of transportation in which I get an entire seat to myself, my own selection of entertainment, and don’t have to close my eyes and hold my breath at every turn. I may even skip the Xanex just to catch up on the year and half of movies I’ve missed!

Lots of love to everyone.

Kate

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Malaria Day 4

So I have malaria. It's just not as exotic as you would think. And for anyone not totally up to speed on their African diseases, malaria is what happens when an infected mosquito bites you. If you're a healthy person, the symptoms are generally like a bad flu. I'm taking medicine and just pretty weak from not eating in a few days. I'm on the upswing and hope to head home to the village tomorrow.

No other news.

Happy Birthday Marcy on Friday!

Countdown to America: 64 days!

xox

PS-Have a new side project idea. I've been having great discussions with villagers about development and potential of Tanzania and how HIV is going to impact the future. In my region of TZ, Iringa, the HIV rate is 21% compared to a national 5.5%. The responses I get in how the discrepancy came to be are fascinating. Idea: Get the ideas from all types of village characters from teachers, politicians, cooks, housegirls, farmers, etc. I've so far talked to the primary school principal and my house girl and the responses are just polar opposite. So interesting! Keep you posted..

PSS-There is a new blog post below as well.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Blah!

This blog was written on September 25.

Blah as opposed to blah, blah, blah, sums up my current demeanor. Enthusiasm-blah. Contentedness-blah. Progress-blahhhhhhh. For the first time ever I have wistfully looked into the distance picturing what would happen if I gave everything up and ran back to America. Obviously that's not an option as I am tied up in grants, promises, and pride. I'm at the 15-month mark, and fighting hard not to be jaded. Idealism has long been chucked out the window but I'm not yet a cynic. It's probably going to get better and with America and France to look forward to in just 74 days (not that I'm counting), I know I can make it. I have every intention of coming back reenergized and motivated to close out my service with a smile.

After I leave the internet cafe I'm off to a 40 cent lunch of rice, beans, and extremely greasy greens. Then the routine. Buy a package of pasta, enough candles to last the week and a handful of tomatos, onions, peppers, and garlic. Squeeze myself and belongings in between a village of people to secure my 2inch 'seat' on the bus. Fight with the conductor over the real price and 'mzungu' (white) price and find my happy place. Thankfully the ride is only about 20 minutes, up to 40 depending on the amount of police stops and drunk people. Then I sit on a bicycle for an additional 30, return home and carefully inspect for any sign of rats/army ants/cockroaches/cat poop/or bees nests.

Today I have a meeting with the mama's batik group. We are discussing batik patterns which we will then hire a village artist to draw. I am really dragging my feet in the mud with this project as I have major reservations. I'm unsure of the professional, artistic, and business capabilities of the women. One thing that reassures me, however, is their enthusiasm. Perhaps it's unfair to say I'm worried about their potential shortcomings. Truthfully I’m more concerned that I'm not able to lead a fledgling business.

For a quick update: The toilets are near completed although I have just been asked for an additional $500. While the Tanzanians working on this project are absolutely not stealing, they are tapping me to the last penny. They assume that I am an endless source of money and patience. Mid-way through the project they decided to change some of the building plans without consulting me on the cost. I am completely against a wall here and have no choice but to comply. Thankfully, I have received private donations for the toilets that supplement new costs.

The chickens are plumping up daily and have received their vaccinations and TLC like clock work. Unfortunately this clock work is largely dependent on myself and counterpart being present. Not a day goes by that I visit the chicken coup, wading around barefoot in chicken shit, and realizing the students and teachers have overlooked the completely dry water dish or food trough. Oops. I started passive-aggressively telling some people if the 'volunteers' don't start taking their job more seriously, come laying time, I'll be reaping 100 eggs a day for myself.

The orphan garden is on hold until just before the rains. Our village, like all other villages, is having a major water crisis. Crisis being-there is no water. With hardly enough to bathe, wash dishes, cook, and boil drinking water, I am in no position to start a sprawling vegetable garden. This project must wait until early November. I do plan on FINALLY making a house-to-house orphan quality of life assessment this month. The next step is also to identify children living with 1 parent but in unsuitable conditions.

This week I will be painting our labor-room a breezy summer blue. The room is dismal and makes giving birth look like a punishable offense. The women are currently delivering (sans ANY medicine) on a wooden, rickety bed because the government issued hospital bed is broken. At least when I get through with the room, hopefully adding silk flowers and pretty curtains, the room will feel less, well, abysmal. Did I mention that 1 day after popping out a baby au natural, you walk home, child strapped to your back, personal belongings in hand? No. Thank. You.

All else is fiiine. Will try to stay in better touch.

xoxo,

Kate

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Two Sides to Every Coin

It's been a tumultuous few weeks. I've come out hopeful and reenergized, but also incredibly cynical about Tanzania's potential for sustainability. It's much more pleasant to read the glossy 'save-our-children' late-night commercial stuff, but it's an unfair depiction. Tanzania is not a country of all kind villagers trying to better their lives and the lives of their children. My village is full of negligence, abuse (of children, animals, and alcohol), greed, and incessant gossip. This isn't saying that all people in Mhaji are this way or that even the others don't deserve basic services like medicine in the health center and proper education for their children. It's simply to say, I'm tired.

I'm tired of 'can i have', 'i want', 'give me candy/money/dictionary/a cow/my dishes/MORE MORE MORE MORE MORE MORE MORE. You can want and want and want all you want. So I give you a dollar today. That will buy you alcohol and french fries but tomorrow comes and you have no ability to procur anything for yourself. When I give, I'm actually halting development.

Now I certainly don't feel this way about all forms of charity. I was so grateful to receive 500 toothbrushes and tubes of toothpaste from Janet and UM Dental School. It was a lesson supplemented by 'teaching aids'. Sure I can talk til the cows come home about the merits of clean teeth, yet who actually has a toothbrush? But when a supposed friend takes you aside to talk and says "When you leave, I really think I deserve all of your dishes", all I can see is RED. I'd be acting far too modest if I didn't say that I mentally called her a dumb-stupid-bitchy-bitch-bitch. First of all, woman, be grateful that I'm helping your children. Second, isn't it a little uncouth to ask for a handout a full YEAR before I'm set to leave? If she's already starting a game of Dibs, then she's got a big, fat surprise coming to learn she's not even getting my leftover COAL.

This anger surprised me. But when 5 minutes later someone asked me for a cow, ohhh gurl. Shit hit the fan. I removed myself from society, locking my door from the outside and closing the curtains. I stayed this way stewing in my own rage, self-pity, and disbelief for about 24 hours. And then, I got over it. Not only did I get over it, I became inspired in new and better ways. I looked at my last year of work, evaluating what has been successful and what's been lacking. I noticed that anytime the group of people receciving 'education' has not asked for it, my job is fruitless. When I attempt to teach children's health in front of 200 mamas at clinic day, I'm disheartened time and again when they continue talking on the side and don't ask questions. Guess what mamas? Not wasting my time anymore! I'm having a news board built and each month I will post the lesson. Those who care will read it and ask the nurse questions. Those who are dying to learn more are most welcome to my house.

I also literally cringed at the idea of entering my life skills classes 3x a week. The kids, while generally enthusiastic, haven't seemed to benefit in the slightest from my lessons on assertive behavior and better communication. But this is a place where I just can't quit. After my weekend of madness, something shifted, and I started viewing progress in a different way. Our new and improved life skills will now consist of community speakers ranging from positive examples (village nurse, successful shop owner) to less desirable outcomes (teenage mothers who dropped out of school, HIV+ people, etc). While the kids can study vague definitions of life skills from a manual and stare at the strangely dressed white girl in front of the room, they can benefit infinity more from their own community advising them.

I was lucky to come out of this black hole not only unscathed, but better off. I doubt that will happen too many more times. There will come a point where I will say, ENOUGH ALREADY. I'm hoping I can maintain my spirit and dedication until the end of my service. Since that day (now 2 weekends ago) life has been brilliant as usual. It wasn't a recovery thing where everyday gets a little better. It was life-altering rage and poof, back to normal. Not sure how healthy that is for my blood pressure (hopefully I've got another decade or 2 before that acts up).

So what about some positive updates?

Status of Toilets-Coming right along! Completion date will be in September. Our carpenter is severely MIA. When we get ahold of him however, he's a great worker and is producing fantastic results.

Chicken Project-Let's say that I've just passed Tanzanian Business Ethics 101. When told that our chicks would arrive at the end of the month, smack in the middle of a 2 week conference in Dar es Salaam), I did not lay down easily. After a marathon texting session with the chicken shop keeper the conversations (translated to English) looked like this..

Monday Afternoon

Shopkeeper: I'm sorry, you will receive your chickens on August 31, 2009.
Me: I am asking for your charity. I will not be there on that day and God and I would be most grateful if we can have them Thursday. Have a lovely afternoon.
Shopkeeper: I will give you the answer later.
Me: Thank you so much. I am so sorry to pester you but this is a project for orphans. We will all be so grateful if you allow us to have the chicks on Thursday.
Shopkeeper: Okay, we will give it our best efforts!

Tuesday 1PM
I walk into the shop and no one is surprised to see me. They all know my name by now and greet me. Again I use every pleasantry I can dream of and apologize for being such an annoyance.

Tuesday 1:10PM
WE'VE GOT A DEAL!!!

As for other goings-on:

Last week, our entire primary school and 6th and 7th grade at our other village primary school received toothbrushes and toothpaste. Roaring succcess!

Women's Batik Business:
Our first meeting was on Sunday. Our group consists of 5 mamas, myself, and my male counterpart. Every person is contributing 10,000 tsh (about $8). On Sunday they'll give 6,000 tsh and have 2 months to turn in the remaining 4,000. A contribution is mandatory in making the women feel like they have a real stake in the project. 10,000 Tsh is a LOT of money. It's not something they can throw around. I knowingly placed this financial burden on them so they'll be reliable, show up, give their best, etc. It's strict, but necessary.

I'm sure other stuff is going on, but I'm currently blanking. For pictures of these projects check out my facebook link:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2620225&id=2205190&l=a99701de32

And that is about that. I'm happy, healthy (well, a little sneezy and snotty-that's just village life), and beyond excited to announce I'll be headed home in DECEMBER for a visit! WOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO

xoxo,
Kate

PS-Saturday August 22 is my ONE YEAR anniversary for living in Mhaji village. Wow.

Monday, July 13, 2009

The Kindness of Strangers

This blog entry is dedicated to everyone who has invested their time, money, and entushiasm in Mhaji village. Our cyberspace bridge connecting America and my tiny, beautiful corner of the world in Tanzania is incredible. Think about it. When we mention the problems in Africa, it's vague, sad, and faceless. Choose a country-Tanzania. Tanzania has a population of 36 million. Still vague, faceless. Choose a region-Iringa, population under 2 million. Now a town-Njombe. Population 50,000. Surrounding Njombe are over 100 villages ranging from a population of 500-several thousand. Now look at Mhaji.

3,861 villagers. 2 primary schools. 5 churches. About 20 small shops. A swamp for fishing. Rolling tea fields nearby. No electricity. Community water spickets (unreliable water availability). Main crops are potatoes and corn. A 2 room health clinic. 18% orphan rate in primary school. Approx 15% AIDS rate. 1 resident white girl. Quiet students in uniform. Ancient women farming acres of land with a hoe and hand. Kind eyes and dirty feet.

Doesn't that just change everything? To see my little pocket of the world makes it real. It also makes philanthropy, empathy, and reality infinitely closer. When we donate to a cause, the money drifts into an abyss. Where does it go? Who does it help? It's important to me that you really see Mhaji. The faces, the drive for self-improvement, the humor, determination, and struggle.

It's a daily privilege to work and live in the thriving/struggling/dying/living/happy/hungry community of Mhaji. It's a community on the brink of unprecedented progress. Mhaji is 25km from Njombe town and within the year electricity will be available. By early 2010,an Italian NGO is bringing clean, flowing water to the village. Living on the front line I see who is motivated, who has potential, and which demographics are alienated or underresourced.

My job is to connect people with education and opportunities. This is where you come in. With the overwhelming enthusiasm of friends, family, and often perfect strangers, WE'RE building sanitary and long-term toilets, raising chickens, starting a women's business orginzation, teaching dental hygiene to students, and planting gardens for orphans and people living with HIV/AIDS. All of these projects have been boosted financially by Americans. And while saying thank you can't suffice, THANK YOU.

Thank you for crossing the bridge. You've reached out, reached so far that your voice is heard in Mhaji every day. Your dollars are an investment in the unending potential of Mhaji village. $150 can start a batik clothing business that may carry on for years. $3000 can prevent a cholera outbreak by maintaining sanitary toilet facilities. $500 can raise 60 chickens and through their eggs, it will support orphans and the school. $50 in seeds can feed a village after a few seasons and change the very face of healthy eating. And your words of encouragement, well there is no price I can put on that. Just know that it's these words and the passion behind them that keeps me motivated. Sure I may physically be in Mhaji, but really, I'm only a liaision. I assumed being a Peace Corps volunteer meant 2 years of isolation and independence. Now I see, the more the merrier! Who knew that a veritable army of American philanthropists could live in a rural, African village. Well, you do! AND you get to skip out on the less glamorous aspects like poop holes and biting army ants in bed!

In the coming weeks, the tangible progress is going to be huge. Deliveries of rocks, bricks, and cement are being made each day for the school toilets. Today, I ordered 60 chicks and purchased all of their vitamins, food and water dishes, and food. The chicks should arrive early August. I promise to heavily photo-document the entire process for your viewing pleasure.

I'm headed off to Tanga in a week to be Peace Corps Volunteer of the week. People have been asking if that's a prize, and while a trophy would be cool, no, it's not a prize. The new health and environment volunteers are at their training site now getting adjusted to TZ culture and learning language basics. My job includes presentations on teaching life skills in the classroom and community and how to work with orphans. More importantly, I'll be there to answer questions, listen to woes, and hopefully make a few new friends. The journey is killer. 1 day of a 12+hr bus ride and the second day a 5 hr ride. But it's worth it!

And now, because my mom will quit my blog if I don't mention it, a quick review of our vacay.
My parents arrived June 13 looking dazed but great! I surprised them at the airport and found so much joy in their questions and 'concerns'. Okay, less joy in the concerns, but it's probably true that I'm so adjusted to the culture, I simply see nothing wrong with a plane that has no gas (It'll work out..) or eating food off the ground (hey, it cost $2!! can't waste)...or forgetting toilet paper (really!).

We spent the first few days in Zanzibar, and it was excellent foresight on my parents part not to let me plan the trip. I would have gladly spent the entire time at the resort. And whoa, resort it was. Our rooms were upgraded, and due to the romance of the beach, atmosphere, and suite, I felt like I was on a honeymoon with myself. I schmoozed it up with the staff, and was offered a job that included food and accommodation once I finish my PC service. Let me just say, TEMPTING. We snorkeled, we ate, we drank, we swam, and we savored. I introduced my dad to Tanzania's famous Safari Lager. You never quite know the alcohol content per bottle and it's not too surprising if a fly is floating on top. Beers here are 500ml, which is about 1.5 the size of American beer. Let's just say after a few Safaris, my dad and I were running around on the beach at 9pm chasing crabs and truly considering a midnight swim. If you know my dad, talk of any activity at midnight is only talk.

After Zanzibar and a cool tour of Stone Town, we headed up to the northern parks for about 75 hours of safaris. Oy. As we say in Swahili...inatosha! ENOUGH!!! It was beautiful however, and even the 10 seater planes of impending death offered nice scenery. After meeting up with my boyfriend in Dar es Salaam we continued together to a final safari and my village.

The final and undisputably best part of the adventure was Mhaji. My counterpart, who is essentailly my TZ father, is also the pastor of the Baptist church. He organized a huge celebration of food, singing, dancing and presents. AMAZING. I'll include those pictures soon. But for now, check out my facebook album.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2607936&id=2205190&l=55a65be2e7

On a final note, I want to give a very, very big hug, round of applause, 1st place medal, and all around THANK YOU to Janet English. She found my blog through a friend's mom, and has been an invaluable resource. Her efforts have so far collected 500 toothbrushes and 500 tubes of toothpaste for my students. She also has raised the money to supplement the villagers payment to build toilets. She infuses me with hope and optimism. It's people like Janet that encourage and help us to dream bigger and better in the scheme of grassroots development. So Janet, thank you for your heart and total kindness and selflessness. You are an honorary PCV in Mhaji!

And thank you to everyone that has contributed to my projects. You are all heroes.

Love,
Kate

Friday, May 15, 2009

Pictures and Gratitude









































































Pictures!!


1-My good friend and 7th grader Carolina packing up potato seeds to plant next season.

2-Mariamu sitting on a sack of potatoes ready to be packed and driven to Dar es Salaam. This is my best friends field after all the potatoes have been harvested.

3-Very strong guy carrying a 110 kilo sack on his back. Gives a whole new meaning to sack of potatoes!

4-Agape and Mariamu dancing with cat toys.

5-Mama's Clinic. The first and second Wednesday of each month is mama's health clinic for women with children under 5. At each clinic I give lessons on mother-child health. It's EXTREMELY overwhelming.

6-The row of mama's selling assorted fried foods.

7-My neighborhood kids eating corn stalks. It's like sugar cane, but not as sweet.

8-Getting a "pedicure" in town. $2.25!!!

9-6th tea partay at my house

10-Mariamu and Agape showing off their freshly painted nails!!


GUESS WHAT? My grant was fully funded in just about 10 days. Thank you, thank you, thank you for your genorosity. We're advised that writing Peace Corps Partnership grants is a risky and lengthy way of collecting money. Generally projects can take 2-4 months to fund. We did it in under 2 weeks. I am over the moon grateful, speechless, excited, shocked, thrilled, and ready to get dirty building some toilets! My villagers will be holding meetings, auctions, and generally peer pressuring one another to raise their 25% contribution in the month of June. The plan is to break ground July 1! I will take pictures of every step of the process and post them for your viewing pleasure.


I'll post more about the daily this and that soon.


For now, thanks a million..or should I say, $2,300!?


Sunday, May 3, 2009

3 Blogs in 1: Lucky You!

GUESS WHAT? It's finally online! The grant that feels like I submitted a millenia ago is ready and pleading for your help. If you remember, in February I wrote a grant to build new school toilets. Not only do we not have enough to accomodate nearly 500 students, but between you and me, you'd rather find an airy patch of wilderness to relieve yourself than enter the nausea-inducing captivity of the school toilets. But don't you dare do that, because the last thing my village needs in a cholera outbreak. Anyway, I digress. About a month after submitting the grant, a terrible rainstorm destroyed every single toilet. They literally sunk into the earth. Can you say, pee-yew? The students were then forced to use the two teachers toilets convienently located about 300 meters from my house. Can you say, peeee-yewwwwww? So as you can imagine, the timing was ironic and suddenly extremely immediate. School had to be closed early until new temporary toilets were built by volunteer parents. They're made of wood planks and will probably be suitable for a few more months, max.

My grant, to build 18 new, sparkling toilets is online at this very moment. I need to raise $2,398 and combined with my villagers' pending contribution of about $800 we've got some toilets to build! The goal is to have them ready before the next rainy season in November. We can do this! Usually asking so blatantly for money makes my skin crawl. But this is just too important for reservations. Any contribution is significant. What if you can only donate $5? Hey, that buys a kg of nails! Trust me, every dollar goes to something. And the greatest part is, not a single percent funds cushy administration jobs. It's just me and my village. No middle man sticking his finger in the pot. You can be assured that your contribution will go directly toward labor and materials. For years to come, you will have the satisfaction of having helped children poop safely and hygienically. Now that is something you can brag about at a cocktail party!

The website is www.peacecorps.gov/contribute and select project (Project Number 621-181). The web site is the safest and quickest way to make a donation. You can also make a check payable to Peace Corps Partnership Program and send it to:

Paul D. Coverdell Peace Corps Headquarters
Peace Corps Partnership Program, OPSI
1111 20th Street NW
Washington DC 20526

Be sure to indicate the project number on the check so it will be applied to the correct project. Also, check with your employer to see if they provide matching gifts as many will match your gift dollar for dollar, and remember that your gift supporting this project is tax-deductible!

Together we can prevent diseases like typhoid, cholera, and classroom tardiness. By building sufficient toilets, it is not a stretch to say the quality of thousands of students over the next 10 years will be improved. Just imagine a Save Our Children commercial with the slogan, 'Help our Children Poop Safely!' Catchy, ya? Alright, get outta here and go to the donation website!

A million hugs, Kate

May 3, 2009

No need to read this entry with one hand over your eyes. Unlike the entry below (read that one first!) there is no mention of death, funerals, or dingy government hospitals. This is an entry of hope and a few rays of sunshine as we leave the long rainy season behind. Before you cue the Barney the Dinosaur soundtrack and I ask everyone to hold hands, give me some time to explain. April was a watershed month in productivity. Of course for every hour of work, there are 4 more of Sudoku, day dreaming, and reading the same People magazine for the 35th time. April was a month of Life Skills and English classes, grant writing, and well...there's no snappy two-word name for the rest of it. I'll highlight a few of my favorite current projects.

Chicken Raising-
You've been hearing for awhile about my intentions to raise chickens at the primary school. It's coming together so well! I submitted my grant to Peace Corps-Dar es Salaam almost two weeks ago. After many, many emails of minute and agonizing questions, the grant will pass through inspection with ease and after approximately one month, the $500 maximum limit for this type of grant will be deposited in my bank account. Then the real fun will begin! There is only a small snag in this fabulous plan. It seems my grant has lost somewhere in transit. Whether the Tanzanian postal service 'misplaced' it or it's simply buried under other files in the Peace Corps office, it is M.I.A. In America, this would be terms for absolute fury. Wrath I tell you. A grant, practically my infant child, has gone missing. As you may have guessed, there are no Amber Alerts in Tanzania, and there is also no rush. I will simply mail it again on Monday. Of course it's stressful, and will most certainly push back my start date by a month, I've just gotta roll with the punches. I will keep you all posted on the status of progress.

Upendo Consultations-
Upendo is a word in Swahili that means like or love. It's a pretty dangerous word to have a double meaning. Lots of mixed messages, let me tell you! Anyway, after organizing an orphan census at Mhaji Primary School and reeling by the statistics: 17% of children have lost one of both parents, there are 65 children with one parent and 15 with none, I decided to take action. Although the profit from chicken raising and egg selling will benefit those without parents, who is going to show them some love? I created a new notebook (love doing that!) to chart the progress and condition of every child without parents. I devised a list of questions ranging from how old are you, when did your parents die, do you sleep on the floor or in a bed, what do you eat in the morning and evening, what work do you do at home, etc. Of 15 orphans, one girl, Yunis, the sweetest, meekest child born with a birth defect that left her without a nose, knows her birthday. Some, albeit the younger ones, couldn't even tell me their age. But let's talk about Yunis. Yunis stopped attending school for nearly a year because a former teacher would call on her in class by saying 'Pua' or 'Nose'. She now lives with her teenage sister and her sister's infant child. After school, she heads straight to the farm to weed the corn, which will be the primary source of food for the next year. This is a child who could use some Upendo.

Yunis's missing nose might make her stand out, but the rest of the children are just as scarred. One 10 year old girl lost both parents and her youngest sibling in 2008. All at separate times. Honestly, how do these children endure? Where is that inner source of strength that keeps them stone-faced and brave? Who holds their hand when they're scared and who tells them they have really great handwriting or kick a ball better than any other kid? This is where I come in. Each month I will meet with them one-on-one to check their pulse, so to speak. I'm not sure if they'll ever open up to me, but it's important to know there is someone doting on them. 1 of the 15 children told me he occasionally eats meat or rice, and he may have been lying. Most eat nothing in the morning and in the evening have ugali and a basic leafy green. In case you forgot ugali is corn flour and water turned into a playdough like substance and eaten with your right hand. It can be tasty but has very little nutritional value.

So here is my newest idea. I'm going to start a vegetable garden with the orphans! They will learn how to plant and grow something other than corn and in turn they will take the vegetables home. It would be great to teach them to grow and eat a traditional American salad. Okay, I know this is where every single person that even remotely knows me snickers. You're saying, Kate Elizabeth Glantz, the Happy Meal Queen. What does she know about a traditional American salad? Ya, you're right but I'm turning over new pages everday, so just work with me on this! If anyone would be interested in supporting me in this endeavor, it would be greatly apprecaited. Seeds aren't extremely expensive, but they certainly go beyond my monthly stipend. Because I already have 2 grants open and the capitol needed is relatively small, this is not something that would require the lengthy paperwork of grants. I probably should have looked into this before writing, as I don't know what customs says about sending seeds across borders. (Hey dad, look into this okay?) Anyway, it's also difficult to find a variety of seeds here. Vegetables like lettuce, peppers, zuchini, etc is extremely hard and/or expensive to purchase. If anyone is interested in sending seeds or a very small contribution to help me with this, please send me an email at Kateglantz@gmail.com or leave a comment with contact information on my blog. My parents will be visiting me in June, so sending something within the US would be far more efficient than the cross your fingers luck of the TZ postal service. Then it will be in their hands if they get caught smuggling seeds into Tanzania! That would be a fun start to vacay!


Health Question Box-
One day, sitting on the back of my bicycle 'taxi' to my village, I got to talking with the driver. He was asking me so many questions about AIDS and sex. We are friends so he felt secure in speaking his mind. This amazing and open dialogue got me thinking about the potentially hundreds of villagers that have never been comfortable to so much as say good morning to me. I'm pretty intimdating, don't you think?! Anyway, I started wondering how I could get this silent demographic to warm up. At every government and school office there is a wooden suggestion box. It's the weirdest 1st world tradition to steal. Probably the British that left it behind, those Brits and their politeness. I decided what better way to get a rise out of people than put health ' suggestion boxes' in the most social centers of the village. I immediately ordered two boxes equipped with lock and key and a set of instructions to be posted next to the box. The instructions, although in Swahili, roughly translate to 'Do you have a question about health? Feel free to ask anything about diseases like AIDS, nutrition, family planning, etc. This could all be done anonymously and I promised to post the answers on the wall each week. That way, even people not asking questions have the potential to learn. And because the boxes and answers are in very public places, people will be more apt to discuss the issues together. After one week I got some great questions, some ridiculous ones clearly written by a prankster, and a contigent of drunk men that banded together and word for word copied the same letter, asking me to build them a toilet at the village bar! It's actually a really legitimate request. Whild I have no intention of given them a cent, I will speak with a local leader to see about organizing a day to build one themselves. If they do it efficiently, I might just rescind on my claim of never buying anyone local brew, and have a party for all. 20 Liters of the local stuff would cost me about $8.

6 and 7th grade Tea Parties-
I've mentioned this adorable event before, but there is a new, and slightly funny twist. I had intended the monthly tea parties to be only for the oldest girls, Standard 7. But this month, to put it nicely all of the 7th grade were apathetic little assholes. Ya, I know I just called African children assholes, but teenagers are teenagers wherever you are. The 6th graders, however, really impressed me this month with their attention span and responsiveness to questions and class activities. I had planned to have the 7th grade tea party last Sunday. But as Thursday's class came to a close, I snapped. I told them, pole sana (I'm very sorry) but you do not deserve your tea party this Sunday. We'll see how you do next Thursday and go from there. But then I realized, why not choose the best class each month to treat to the party? It's a very American concept. Bribery, incentive, competion. But I think it just might work. I actually have to hurry home soon to fire up the little charcoal stove and get huge vats of tea boiling. I think it's going to be great!

Village AIDS Testing Day-
On May 21, an NGO from Njombe is coming to my village to perform free AIDS testing to all who come. I'm really excited about this and hope the response is heavy. My goal is for 300 people to be tested. This number is actually quite low but I have no way to judge interest as it's the first testing day. Once the results are in, all who are HIV positive can immediately start treatment. I know it might sound weird or even apathetic that I'm not worried who has HIV. Come on, 15% of my region has it. It's a fact of life, and it's too late for them to teach prevention. For those living unknowingly, they must be tested. If anything they can start having safe sex and prevent their partners current and future from contracting the disease. They can also start ensuring a longer life by beginning ARVs. I have faith it's going to be a great day!

So that's the update. When I'm not doing something productive or relaxing at home, I'm being eaten alive by the cutest children on the planet. They totally know they own me. While most children are scared or simply unwaveringly polite, my rag tag neighbor children literally walk all over me and I love it. Whenever I come home from town or even leave my house for the first time in the morning I get a swarm of children running full force at me, arms extended wide to line up for hugs. I know I've mentioned that I've taught them how to blow kisses when we say goodbye, but HOW CUTE IS THAT? In their little kiddie voices they say 'Kayteeee, byeeeee' and blow kisses until I'm out of sight. One little girl, I'll admit, my very favorite, somewhere picked up the very Euro action of a kiss on each cheek. This is a 4-year old village child we're talking about. Where the hell did she learn how to great like a French woman? These kids just make every inconvience or frustration worth it

And now that you're sufficiently up to speed, it's time to mess around on Facebook before my internet time runs out. Lots of love to you and you and you!

April 25, 2009

Long time no type. I have every intention of being an attentive and informative blogger but in many ways my life has normalized into a routine not worth mention. While nothing I do is common, it's now commonplace. If everyday is a sensation than somewhere it runs into a pattern of normalcy. It's been 10 months in a 3rd world village and I can really hang. Spiders in the house, so what? Ants in my food, pick them out. Twelve hour bus rides of terror, hey that's just Point A to B. However, there are some things that will never cease to make my stomach turn. In recent weeks I have seen too much truth. The Tanzanian health care system outwardly seems progressive. Treatment is free and medicine as well. But first you have to find a doctor to look at you. A Peace Corps friend of mine recently showed up in town at 10 pm with a dying child. In the dank, hardly lit hospital 10pm certainly felt to them like the last hour. There was one doctor and one nurse on staff for the entire hospital. The fact is, no bribe, no rush. Because the family decided not to slip a few thousand shillings in the doctor's pocket, his fate would have to wait until morning rounds. It took about 48+ hours of a gaggle of Swahili speaking, partially jaded by Tanzania Peace Corps Volunteers making a scene to get this child a blood transfusion. He finally got one, but what about the little girl dying next to him? Without too much graphic detail, this girl, probably around 12 years old was in and out of consciousness, lips swollen so large her mouth was never quite closed. Instead, the most horrible, desperate gasps heaved themselves from her mouth like a pathetic plea for help. Where was her contingent of 'white knights' by her bedside? Next to her was a tired looking father, a little nervous and very confused at the constant train of wazungu trickling in and out of the hospital to look at one otherwise not unique child.

Back to the boy who needed blood. Once he received his transfusion there was a massive sigh of relief. He would live and we wouldn't have to awkwardly comfort another family or another friend who has lost a child too soon. A week passed and his condition worsened. He was essentially in a coma. Apparently once you've received a blood transfusion it's essential to check the hemoglobin count again only hours later. This was not done for one week. One WEEK. What did his h.g. count say? Well, it was just about high enough for a toddler. This boy is 16 years old. There is no climax to this story. To be honest, I haven't asked my friend about his condition. Life doesn't stop for one boy.

In fact, while I was visiting this boy in the hospital, completely unbeknownst to me, one of my own 7th grade students was lying nearby in a hospital bed. He died. What do children die of in Tanzania? Very good question. If you did a survey of death certificates, it would say 'flu' or 'anemia' as well as any other variety of common non-life threatening ailments. It should say BULLSHIT. These children are malnourished, have leaky faucets for noses, and simple infections turn into life threatening emergencies due to lack of education, neglect, poverty, and fucked up government hospitals. Excuse the language, clearly I'm a bit worked up. But I know you would be too.

Let's talk about a Tanzanian mourning party! The day a person dies, in my story, the 13 year old boy from my village, the body is taken to a room of the family's house. The boy was placed on a bed in a small room with dirt floors. His body, covered in two wool blankets. The floor; covered in straw mats. All of the women relatives and children in the family sit on the floor and wail. Screaming incoherently, banging their fists, spit flying from mouths in fervor. It's absolutely horrifying. My first thought-get me out of here! I wasn't emotional, just freaked out. As the women really let go, I stared at the body. It was the first dead body I had ever seen, let alone sat two feet from. I could see his rigid outline under the blanket. His joints stiffened in death left the imprint of small knees and boney elbows through the blanket. After about 20 minutes of averting eye contact with everything with a pulse, it was time for all of the 7th grade students to say goodybe. The blanket was lifted and his face was exposed. WHOA, was not expecting that. I wasn't scared and not too uncomfortable. It was sorta nice seeing a very real face to a very real dead body. What came next was heartbreaking. The students came in one by one to wave goodbye. This being Africa with a village funeral nearly every day, I was sure the children were hardened pros. I think I overestimated that sometimes, children are children no matter where you are. Some cried, some were stoic, but to my complete surprise, some were scared senseless. They scampered in and out like a deer in the headlights, absolutely horrified at the site of their dead friend. Try that ritual in America and you'd have a lot of kids in counseling! Finally, one girl said a few words to the deceased boy which for some reason was so touching. In the midst of confusion and fear, a 13 year old girl said goodbye in a manner so moving yet simple, I couldn't help but sniffle and and shed a few tears. Finally, it was time to get up, put our shoes on and sit outside with the grieving men for a few moments. I was served chai and then I left. I didn't attend the funeral because I had to teach. Death is so strange.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

March Showers Bring...April Showers?

I'm back. I was never really far away, just have lost the motivation absolutely critical to a fulfilling post. I'll try my best today, but will be cheating a little...You'll see how soon.



To say March has been busy would drastically over-exaggerate my pace of life. I generally am going to and fro between town, a village meeting, or Peace Corps 'social event' but somehow seem to have the hours to read several books a week. Much like a cat, I can lose afternoons to watching the precise line of ants move across my living room floor or watching the clouds bend and twist like balloon animals.

Will I ever learn to negotiate the strange folds of time or will she continue to manipulate me? I'm assuming the latter. A day can be the most excruciatingly epic experience while the last 9 MONTHS in Tanzania have been a blink. Not much has changed in the village. I teach a few days a week, I play with my gaggle of rag tag kids building mud pies or coloring. I eat my neighbors food sheepishly but with gusto. I talk about hookers with old drunk men and how to get a girl to like you with young guys. I play sports with kids and make cookies for friends. I don't really know if any of this consitutes as work. But then again 2/3 goals of Peace Corps are to allow another culture to understand yours and to understand another people's culture. If this is work, it's pretty fun!

I've been experiencing a lot of guilt recently...well always. If I spend a great day in town and don't want to leave, I usually end up staying another day but beat myself up for at least 6 hours. Joining the Peace Corps I was ready to sign away all hope for friends, entertainment, and any luxuries of my previous life (pizza, internet, pedicures). I expected to live in a village for 2 years and tie up the whole package with a nice little bow. I would look back one day at the Peace Corps "experience" as grueling and eye-opening. I would remember my hardships and smile with pride. Instead, I am living in a foggy, faded but still recognizable lifestyle. I'm not the replica Peace Corps brochure tanned, rugged girl staring into the face of poverty and lifting all out of oppression. Ha, are you kidding me? My villagers help me understand far more than I've been able to teach them. But somehow, I think I'm going to manage.

Some recent events of notice:

2 Sundays ago I had a 7th grade tea party. All girls from Standard 7 were invited to my house for tea, snacks, and girl talk. For about 2 hours we read health magazines in Swahili, told jokes, and even practiced some English. In a word: PRECIOUS. Can't wait for next months fiesta...or should I say sherehe?

I was robbed...again. Coming back from a short trip, some very crafty little thief removed my bag from the bus. In it was money, clothes (TOWN CLOTHES aka normal clothes), camera battery/charger (hence no pictures will be posted for awhile), and assorted items that while of insignificant monetary value, meant a lot to have away from home. Take home sentiment: I hate thieves. They have such power here. If someone decides to take something from me I have virtually no option and there are absolutely NO consequences. Oh unless that person is caught in the act...then they are beaten to death. Ultimately, I'd rather be out a few tshirts than have blood on my hands.

I'm helping a friend in the village start a 'coffee shop.' Before you think of ice blended mochas and carrot cake, let me define 'coffee shop'. It's called an Mghahawa and is basically a small restaurant that serves snack food. In Tanzania it means chai tea and fried carbs. Knowing very, very, I repeat, practically nothing about business we're going to take it slow. One thing I do know, however, is that a successful business means beating the competion by providing something quality that they don't have. What does this mean? BANANA BREAD! It's a fruit that is cheap and plentiful and we're ready to capitalize. :) I'll keep you posted...

How's this for strange timing? About 3 days after I submitted a grant to build new, quality toilets at my primary school, our entire toilet building collapsed into the ground during a rainstorm. Two days later scores of parents and village leaders were digging trenches for temporary toilets. In a few short weeks I'll give everyone the down low on how to help me build these fabulous new toilets! No shovel required.

In Tanzanian culture, when someone is sick it is mandatory you visit and 'look' at them. Yes, the way it translates is "Have you gone to look at the sick person yet" "Yes, I went yesterday, and today, and I'm going this evening as well." As Americans can you think of anything worse than 10 people gathering around you after you've puked your brains out or have diareah so badly it's more efficient to nap on the toilet? No probably not. While in college I might get out of things by saying I have a headache, I will go to any length to hide the fact I'm feeling under the weather. I recently had to look at a sick friend. It was quite pathetic. She was laying on a straw mat in her corn field sleeping. As I approached her temporary care takers insisted on waking the poor woman up so she would know I had arrived. I wanted to shout "Let the woman rest!" but instead waited patiently for her to stir awake and tell me how she already had recovered. It's absolutely one of the most awkward song and dances of Tanzanian culture.

I want to end with an essay one of my students wrote. He's not technically my student as he studies at a school a few hours walk from my house. He is in the equivalent of 11th grade. Incidentally, he happens to be one of the poorest and brightest kids I know. He approached me last year and matter-of-factly told me he needs to learn more English but has nothing to pay me. I shrugged and said sure come over next week, assuming he'd flake or we would spend hours with basic introduction. He appeared dutifully the following week, in a crisply ironed shirt armed with notebook, pen, and a lot of determination. We ended up meeting twice a week during his vacation and by the end of Day 1 this kid had blown me away. He is FLUENT in English. And with no help from teachers. He studied by lantern for hours every night memorizing the dictionary and exercise books of his older brother. His poverty is so great that he cannot afford to sleep at the school where he studies. Instead he boards with a family who forces him to bring his food from our village and cook it all on his own. Preparing a single meal in Tanzania can take up to 3 hours which simply cannot be spared for a dedicated student. We've worked out a deal in which I pay for the family to cook his food if he promises all As and Bs. He has a notebook that's just between us in which he talks about his goals, challenges, and dreams...all in English. After a visit last weekend, he forgot the notebook. I flipped it open and immidiately was drawn to this essay. Remember this kid is in 11th grade, speaks more English than anyone at his school (INCLUDING his teachers), and has absolutely nothing nothing nothing.

This is his exact essay, and for authenticity I'm not changing any spelling errors.

"This Time Tomorrow"

Everyday when waking up before leaving for school, I begin thinking about where shall I be this time tomorrow?

It is very difficult for Tanzanians to ask themselves such a question. For if we did, Development in Tanzania would grow rapidly. No one would live in the slums. I'm one of the people who live in the slum. My life is so wonderful that I don't like to go home with my friends with me. I still tell my friends that someday I'll show them our house, but it is untrue I will not.

A lot of students think that my parents are very rich, able to send me to a trition during the holidays but, this has been a secrete to me. I don't like to tell them directly that I'm poor for I may feel myself elianated.

I sometimes think if I was a president, what I would to my citizens andhow I would raise the standard living of the people in the slums. People in the slums are said to be less educated than those in developed towns. They dig, they plant, they weed, they fertilize, and they harvest and they then sell these products at low price to the rich people without considering how much (money) they spent on buying fertilisers and how much they sell their products. It is how development in the slums is stagnated. The position of the president would change development in the slums because it is he/she who controls all activities in the country.

"Where shall I be this time tomorrow? " I say to myself, I want to know tomorrow and not yesterday.

____________________
WOW, right? And that's my answer...Guilt, poverty, privilege, blah blah blah. This kid is why I'm here.

Love to everyone!

Katie

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Pictures!
















Because I'm not motivated enough to spin any tales today...PICTURES


1. Some of my favorite kiddies.
2. My village nurse's big town wedding.
3. Decades costume party in Iringa
4. Mariamu making faces.
5. 7th grade girls building a road (I helped!)
For more pictures click here!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2541912&id=2205190&l=b3bbd






Saturday, February 21, 2009

And I'm Back!

And here we go. Because my ability to string cohesive sentences together has mysteriously gone missing, I'll do my best to get the basic points across. Every day is slightly more ridiculous than the last and guess what? I'm not complaining!

Highlights since Iringa In-Service Training:

About two weeks ago I cooked lunch for 500 students. Yep. The girl who eats spoonfuls of peanut butter and dry oatmeal for dinner can sure find her way around a kitchen...err, 'outdoor cooking area'. Imagine a cauldron. Essentially the biggest pot you've ever seen. A pot large enough for at least 5 small children to sit in. Let's call it a cauldron though, more fun that way. Also some foreshadowing into a bit of Harry Potter-esque sorcery fiascos...(Are you hooked yet?)

I arrived to the 'outdoor cooking vicinity' at 7am. Myself and Mama Mpishi (Translates: Mama Chef) grabbed 20L buckets and headed in search of the nearest working water source. Thankfully it was only about a 3 minute walk. After filling about 10 buckets, we were set. We then collected pieces of firewood (or small trees) to build a fire. I'm sure I've described this before, but here's a refresher course on large-scale Tanzanian food prep. Imagine three large rocks, not boulders-not pebbles. Let's throw out a number-10 lbs each and maybe about a foot long. Arrange them into a triangle formation with about 1 foot space in the center. (Sorry for any non-Americans...but it's not my fault I don't understand metric.) Now you place your cauldron on top of the rocks. From every opening in the triangle you slide long piece of wood and get a nice little fire going. The amount of smoke is unbelievable. Your eyes burn, your throat burns, but most of all there is a horrible tickle in your nose that makes you wiggle it constantly to achieve relief. It doesn't come. That's when you take your cute white butt out of the kitchen and stand to the side while Mama Mpishi does the dirty work.

The corn and beans, all 200+ lbs of it are divvied into the three cauldrons. About 60L of water goes in to start. After about 4 hours the water has come to a boil! Then we add salt (NOT IODIZED THANK YOU VERY MUCH). And finally, the very best part...stirring! There is a wooden plank about 10 feet long that serves perfectly as a spoon. Any splinters or creatures on the plank just add flavor naturally.

Around 12:45 pm our work is almost done. Six students arrive and with leaves and grass as oven mits, lift the boiling concoction called Kande from the fire. The lunch bell rings and a stampede of students can be felt from across campus. They line up girls on one side boys on the other by age. CUTE CUTE CUTE. I insisted on participating from start to finish so I took my place in front of the boys and slopped food onto about 250 plates. In 15 minutes. If all else fails in life, I'm fairly certain I could make a pretty good showing as Lunch Lady.

The local salooni (or barbshop) is a hub of young guys with stories to tell and the time to do it. The village barber, also one of my English students, happens to be one of the nicest guys around. How do I know this? He's never once asked to marry me. Because he cuts hair, it's imperative to have a generator working during the day. Trust me, that is rare. I generally charge my cell phone at his shop and last week decided to hang around until it was ready. After the barrage of questions and comments from 18-25 year old guys ("So you're 15 right?" "What kind of crops are there in America?" "Why are you working for free?" "How do I talk to girls?" "Will you help me find a wife?" "Will you be my wife?" and so on) I decided to get a little education of my own. I boldly insisted I was a whiz with the hair razors and for everyone to take the afternoon off, I'm in charge now. Of course they thought it was a fantastic idea. For the next 2 hours I trimmed beards, applied baby powder, and attracted the attention of everyone in a 500 ft radius. It was AWESOME.

As for real work, it's going pretty well! I teach life skills three days a week and adult English once a week. I'm working on a grant to build new school toilets and will soon start the process of acquiring 100 chickens to raise at the primary school! Farmer Kate is about to have a chicken farm! The objective in buying an obscene amount of chickens is to sell their eggs in town. This way, once I leave, the school will be able to receive reliable income for projects like electricity, expanding the garden, and providing supplies for orphans. It's going to be great!

I left my notebook with 'blog-worthy' anecdotes at home so I'll sum up with a harrowing tale of witchcraft. From January-April 2008, there was a pretty severe problem with possessed children at the primary school. Almost every day a handful of girls would simply drop to the ground unconscious. They would speak with their eyes closed and say something along the lines of, "I'm not Sarah, Sarah is in the field farming now. She'll be back later. I'm Mwalimu X." Every child would name the same teacher who happened to be the wife of the principal. Sometimes the kids would get violent. They'd take off running down the road screaming and punching anyone that got in their way. When they came to, they wouldn't remember a thing and many insisted they had never passed out.

In April, a group of villagers got drunk and stormed the principal's house with machetes, knives, and firewood. After breaking down the door and beating her to near death, she escaped and ran to the village office. She spent a week in the hospital and recovered. Of course, the family was forced to flee. For nearly two months, the village had no principal as all were too afraid to come. Finally in June a new family came, and thank goodness for it, because they are now my family. The faintings stopped and life returned to normal.

Why am I talking about the past? Well, I had heard only bits and pieces of this story until the former Peace Corps volunteer in my village came back to live for a few months. She gave me the full scoop and I was naturally shocked. Well how's this for creepy...the next day one girl fell. And the next day 2 more. And again last week, I found a girl unconscious on the ground. Ahhh. I can't say I believe in sourcery, but the villagers certainly do. There is a certain fear derived from their fear. Although I know it's probably just a pyscho-social chain reaction, their fear is so pure that it absolutely gets me on edge. As long as no one starts naming Mwalimu Katie as the witch, I'm going to be just fine.

More to come soon, but I have 58 seconds left until my internet cuts. Lots of love to everyone!

And a special shout-out to the Maletics. Mr. and Mrs. Maletic, thank you so much for your support and kind words. But mostly, thank you for paying Emily's phone bill and allowing her to send me international texts with great frequency! Emily, get yourself to the village already.

xoxo

Monday, February 16, 2009

I'm Sorry

I have completely and utterly neglected my blog for ages now. My intentions are always to update but time in its crazy way has escaped me yet again.

I promise, promise next weekend or shortly thereafter a full update will be posted. For now know that I'm healthy, happy, and thinking about all of you.

XOXO

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Goat is Good for the Soul

With only two days to go of In Service Training, the best word to describe my experience is: spent. Meetings begin at 8am everyday and last until 4-6pm each evening. Everything is discussed in English, Swahili, and many variations of Swahinglish. The topics, some interesting, some repulsive range from creating income generation projects for orphans, the relationship between TB and HIV, and the gag-worthy consequences of STI's and irresponsible sex. Needless to say, there has been a barrage of information and it is not unlikely that quite a bit has been lost in translation. Each volunteer has been joined by one Tanzanian from our village and selected as our counterpart, whether temporary or for the duration of our service.

My counterpart is amaaazing. He is the Baptist pastor in Mhaji but is also one of two leaders in the People Living With HIV/AIDS group I now work with. Tanzania is an extremely religious country, and for a pastor to advocate equality and support for all living with HIV, it is nothing short of very special. Although I only plan on working with him for projects regarding AIDS, I couldn't have chosen a more reliable, kind-spirited, and supportive counterpart. He's also REALLY tiny. I hope this information makes you smile as much as it does me: Everyday, no matter the outfit, Milton wears a red belt. This belt is so large that he has to tuck it into every belt hole in his pants until it reaches the middle of his back. He also is an very enthusiastic clapper.

Yesterday, as everyone in the entire world knows, was Obama's innaugaration. As you can imagine, it was a most unusual occasion to observe in Africa. About half of our group decided to watch it at a local Tanzanian bar that serves up some amazing goat. I sat at the main bar for awhile, chatting with people, watching the TV and drinking a cold Tanzanian beer. As Obama began to speak, I pushed myself through the crowd and into a small side room with a TV. At first, I sat on the floor, eyes glued. A barmaid immediately stood up and pushed me into her seat. As I fell in the wooden chair with tattered cushion and no seat cover, against the wall and at an extremely awkward view of the tv inside an iron cage suspended from the ceiling, Tanzania fell away.

Ok, I lied, Tanzania never really falls away. The man next to me persistently slurped his goat soup, barmaids screamed across the room at eachother, and a lone cockroach meandered up and down the wall, only inches from my face. Beyond that, however, I was lost in the moment. As Barak Obama promised to put science to it's proper use and harness natural energy, as he acknowledged those sitting in villages waiting for change to come, I was overwhelmed. I was proud. I was excited. This is a man who made me cry, not from embarassment or shame, but for instilling hope and possibility. The room was spellbound and the night electric. KARIBU SANA BARAKA OBAMA, RAIS WETU MMPYA (A huge welcome to Barak Obama, our new president).

There is one idea I'd like to share with everyone that came from a cross-cultural session we had this morning. We were split into groups: Tanzanians and Americans. We were given a scenario of a post-apocalyptic situation in which 11 people remained to propegate the species. The only remaining safe haven had space enough for 5 people. After receiving small biographies of each person, it was then our duty to kill the other 6. We quickly killed anyone past child-bearing age, of extreme religious persuasion, and let the prostitute, single mother, and teenage boy who believed in abortion to survive. Among those not so fortunate were a 6month-old healthy baby, a middle-aged priest, and 71 year-old doctor, and the 37 year-old wife of a professor we let live. Not a shocking conclusion for young, liberal Americans. Prostitutes can have big hearts and single mothers are survivors!

Who did the Tanzanians keep? The pastor, the married couple and their 6 month-old child, and a teenage boy. How will the species continue? The priest can't have sex, the mother has 2, maybe 3 years of fertility left, and one day in about 15 years the little girl can make babies with the one remaining boy that is not her FATHER. OY VEY. The Tanzanians that decided this are not stupid, in fact, they're extremely intelligent and among the most respected citizens in their village. They were simply trying to form the most reputable group of people to continue the human race. The prostitute, although she had nurses training, was of ill-character and must not reflect the future. The priest, 56-year old and unable to procreate was valued highest as a spiritual necessity. And naturally, the family cannot be spared.

These decisions sparked a bit of fierce debate among the Americans and our counterparts. The take-home story, 'everyone is right and it's a matter of how you were raised blah blah' is not the moral here. What I noticed is that Tanzanians firmly, stead-fastly believe in their choices. And not just in this silly game. There is a single way to do everything and deviating from the point is excruciating.

While this may provoke discomfort or confusion, I really believe that as Americans we will be able to empathize (if not agreeing with) our Tanzanian communities, more than they are willing or capable of empathizing with us. Granted, this skill is a luxury derived from media, moderate wealth in comparison, and American schooling, it has become apparent in my daily activities. Two-years is not long enough to change behavior on a large scale. But behavior change is probably the most imporant facet of my contribution in Peace Corps. If I can teach people why it's important to brush your teeth twice and day and people actually follow through, or if using condoms is mandatory every time, and maybe 1 prostitute listens, well that's going to be a bigger victory than throwing money at the problem or simply getting frustrated and moving on to something else.

I have 3 minutes left on internet so here's a round-up on my social life: DISCO, DISCO, DISCO, goat, beer, DISCO, goat, friends, beer, goat, friends.

Lots of love!

Kate

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Vacation was amazing. I beached, I ate, I danced, I explored. And now I'm headed back to the village for only FIVE days until our In-Service Training in Iringa. Because my bus leaves soon and I have a stye in my eye so large I can hardly see the computer screen, I'll break down the trip by its highlights:

Places visited:
1. Njombe for Christmas
2. Morogoro town
3. Dar es Salaam
4. Kipepeo Beach

Transportation Totals:
1. Bus-22 hours
2. Taxi-2 hours
3. Dala-Dalas-2 hours
4. Ferry-30 minutes
5-Feet-?

Food and Beverages:
1. Hamburgers-3
2. Chicken Nuggets-8
3. Spring Rolls-6
4. Pizza-2
5. All-inclusive champagne breakfast-1
6. Beers-40?
7. Bottle of Tanzanian Gin-1

Recreation:
1. Bouncing in the waves
2. Dancing at a Bollywood disco
3. Parousing the fish market
4. Skinny dipping in the Indian Ocean
5. Staring at items in the grocery store (choosing anything to buy would have been too overwhelming)
6. Reading O magazine
7. Air-Conditioning
8. Hitch-hiking with foreign embassy cars in Dar
9. Staring unabashedly at white people
10. Going to the MALL!

Vacation was a smashing success. I enjoyed a lot of R&R, explored more of the country, and had amazing food. I am now a proud devotee of Indian cuisine! WHAT?

Village highlight:
Returning home from a day in Njombe I was talking to my bus driver and told him that in America I knew how to drive. He, like everyone else, thought that was pretty funny and of course didn't believe me. I told him one day, I would drive his bus. The conversation changed and I thought nothing of it.

When we had arrived at the village neighboring mine and most people had unloaded, he stopped the car and told me it was my turn! I took a deep breath, got behind the wheel and proceded to offroad in the village bus for about 10 minutes! It was AWESOME. I did learn that the brakes were almost non-existent, something I probably would have rather been blissfully ignorant to. I tried to tell some village friends about my adventure, but no one believed me! Oh well.

Headed back home in about 1 hour. Sunday, however, begins a two-week long conference in Iringa town (about 3 hours from Njombe) that will kick off my official job. I'm bringing a counterpart from my village and we'll be learning about implementing AIDS education, permaculture (google it-it's an awesome concept), and grant writing. After the meeting finishes on January 24, I'll be absolutely ready and charged to start projects and begin turning the wheels of change. Woohoo.

Have a great week everyone and remember, I'm only a skype away!

#- +255-0787788683

Katie